Winter Wonderland of Northern Japan
A winter wonderland filled with dancing Tancho Cranes and majestic Whooper Swans
Tancho Cranes and Whooper (or Hooper) Swans annually migrate from upper Siberia in Russia to the relatively less harsh winters of eastern Hokkaido Island of northern Japan. Watch as these cranes do their love dances in the snow and feel free to join the swans in the thermal spring waters of the lake. When bird spotting in the deep freeze gets too tiring, soak in one of the many romantic outdoor natural thermal springs while your surroundings get covered in snow. End the day with Japanese cuisine around the fireplace, and sleep on your tatami mat after sipping on a cup of green tea. Sounds good? It is! Lets go JAPAN!
One of Japan’s Shinkansen trains
The Red-Crowned Crane (or Japanese Tancho Crane) is found around the marshes north of the town of Kushiro on eastern Hokkaido Island. Hokkaido is Japan’s northernmost large island which forms the head of the dragon-shaped Japan. In the spring and summer, these cranes breed in Russia’s Siberia region but wisely spend their winters around the Kushiro marshes where the cold is less severe than back in Siberia.
There are a few places to see them: The International Crane Centre, about 60 minutes by bus north of the Kushiro JR station, is one of the best places to get close to them. Here, on a good day, you will find about 100 or more cranes, often accompanied by Whooper Swans. If you have your camera with you, you will compete with Japanese photographers (and rarely a foreigner) who tirelessly point their massive Nikon and Canon telephoto lenses at the birds.
Tancho cranes at Akan International Crane Center, Kushiro, Hokkaido, Japan
Hooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus), Kussharo lake near Kawayu Onsen, north eastern Hokkaido, Japan
About 4 km outside Kawayu is the Iozan thermal area in the nearby hills. Witness some very active vents but walk cat-foot wherever you step. The steam is extremely hot around the yellow sulphur mount vents!
Hokkaido Island is blessed with several natural hot springs areas. Probably the most famous are those around Noberibetsu and Lake Toya around the active volcano of Usu. The best time to enjoy these outdoor hot springs is in winter when your surroundings are covered in snow while you snuggle up in the nice hot waters.
Mount Usu-zan, Noboribetsu, Hokkaido, Japan
While in most places males are separated from females, several onsens offer mixed bathing areas – just bring along your fig leaf (which is a small white towel to cover your privates when outside the water, and rest it on your head when inside the water to keep your head warm). Follow the Japanese ritual to carefully wash your entire body before entering the pool and wear your yukata (and not your kimono which is worn outside the house) to and from the baths.
Leave your swimsuit at home as it is not custom in Japan
to wear any swimwear in the hot springs.
While not on Hokkaido Island, but in northern Honshu Island in the eastern Akita Prefecture, Globerovers highly recommends the Tsurunoyu Onsen. This very romantic and cosy ryokan (guesthouse) with onsen is secludedly located in a valley near Lake Tazawako – a crater lake and also the deepest lake in Japan. A washitsu room (Japanese style) with tatami mat goes for over ¥9,500 per person (about US$100), which is not cheap, but a very worthy indulgence to a tired traveller.
Rotenburo at Tsurunoyu Hotel in the Nyuto Onsen area of Tohoku, situated in the deep mountain area of Tazawa Kogen plateau, Akita prefecture.
Also in northern Honchu Island near Yamagata, is the lovely little village of Zao Onsen. Flanked by high ski slopes, this onsen offers several smallish hot springs, of which some are outside along a stream flowing down the mountain.
Be here in the middle of winter and you will be surrounded by a snowy winter wonderland. Don’t miss the Juhyo (snow-covered trees that look like monsters) at the very top of the ski slopes. Again, be here in January and you will be in the deep freeze with the most amazing sights of snow-covered trees you have never seen anywhere else.
Outdoor hot springs at Zao Onsen, Yamagata, Japan
Juhyou frosted fir trees. Zao Onsen, Yamagata, Japan
Mount Komagatake and Lake Tazawako, Akita, Tohoku, Honchu, Japan
Statue Of Princess Tatsuko at Lake Tazawako In Akita Prefecture Japan
Tsurunoyu Onsen, Nyoto hot spring village, Akita
Tsurunoyu Onsen, Nyoto hot spring village, Akita
NORTHERN JAPAN TRAVELLERS TIPS
As we all know, Japan is expensive and during high season accommodation at any price may not be available. Most accommodation in Japan is easily secured by phone or online with no requirement of a deposit.
While a rental car offers more freedom, the good public transportation across Japan makes a rental car just a luxury you can live without.
A JR pass will save you a lot of money so make sure to purchase it before arriving in Japan.
Read more about Japan and other fascinating destinations in
Globerovers Magazine Issue 1, July 2013.