In the far northeast of Guatemala, not too far from the Mexico and Belize borders, rises the remnants of an ancient civilisation which flourished between 200 and 850 A.D. but was then abandoned. Arrive before sunrise, carefully climb the stairs of one of the many temples, and wait for the sun to rise over the jungle. Most likely spider monkeys and toucans will entertain you. Listen to the howler monkeys and other subtle noises of the jungle. At some point in the past, up to 90,000 people lived here during a dynasty which spanned at least 33 rulers.